Thursday 12 August 2010 Faringdon

One week ago Alcyone arrived back to her home port of Hythe. A quick stripping of the boat to remove all fresh food and dirty laundry and then home for a family dinner, a huge pile of correspondence and sleep. A couple of days sleeping and dealing with accounts and correspondence and then back to Alcyone for cleaning.

There has been time to reflect on the cruise.

We were away for 83 days and covered 1,880 miles. The longest days passage was 141 miles from Scarborough to Great Yarmouth and the shortest was 2 miles from Corpack Basin to Banavie on the Caledonian Canal (but that did include Neptune’s Staircase) or, in open sea, 4 miles from Portavadie to Tarbert. Of the 83 nights, 54 were sent in marinas of one sort or another, 8 on pontoons, 10 alongside a wall, 8 on moorings and (rather surprisingly) only 1 at anchor with 2 nights at sea. For much of the time we had light winds from ahead. A spinnaker was carried round Britain but stayed in its locker; only once did we rig the spinnaker pole to boom out the genoa.

The nature and quality of the various marinas was very variable but the prize for the best facilities must go to Portavadie. It was magnificent! The worst; well ..............

Inevitably there were some ‘magic moments’ – a combination of weather, place and people. Motoring between Mull and the mainland when William announced that we should have something hot for lunch, would I like cheese on toast?; he disappeared below, then popped up to announce he could not cook without music – may he plug his iPhone into the radio; then popped up again to announce that he had chosen the most innocuous music; then slices of cheese on toast being passed up. Or anchoring at Lindesfarne for lunch and exploring into the harbour. Or the wonderful anchorage at Carrick Castle, Loch Gail. Or sitting on a bench on the foreshore at Grimsby Sound, Tresco with a pint looking out over the sound.

But the final word can go to Robin Wills whom we met in Dunstaffnage, Oban in his new Malo 38. By email a few days later, having sailed back to Portsmouth, he commented  “ ..... but the strong depression over the Hebrides meant we had 25 knots of wind and two wave trains each of 2 metres with the occasional peak, or trough, of 2.5 to 3 metres. We fell off a couple of waves but otherwise Cantata II coped well with only two offerings for the helmsman. Whilst a Co32 would not have fallen with such a pounding we would have been much wetter...........”

Next time .........

Thursday 5 August 2010 Hythe N 50 52.80' W01 24.50’

The last passage home.

Alcyone left Brighton at 0530 bound for Hythe with a Force 3 wind and moderate sea. The forecast had promised North West Force 4 to 5 wind backing south west in the middle of the day which would have given a reach to the Solent then a reach, on the other tack, up the Solent and Southampton Water but, true to form, the wind was ahead only a few degrees north of west making it close hauled all the way. At least the sun shone for most of the way!

Clearly others had also seen the forecast and worked out the optimum time to leave to get maximum tide as there were at least 10 boats beating down channel out of Brighton as we set course for the Looe Channel. Many seemed to head further offshore and within a couple of hours we were alone.

At 1530 hours Alcyone entered Hythe Marina at the end of some 2,000 miles and 12 weeks of sailing.

Wednesday 4 August 2010 Brighton N 50 48.66’ E 00 06.03’

Frustration. The intention was to make the final passage along the south coast back home to Hythe. Needless to say the weather was not inclined to oblige. The forecast for today predicted south westerly wind Force 4 to 5 with occasional periods up to Force 6 or 7, all accompanied by rain and poor visibility; the forecast for Thursday suggests north westerly wind backing south westerly Force 4 to 5. Hence the decision is to stay in Brighton for one more day and make the home passage on Thursday.

Tuesday 3 August 2010 Brighton N 50 48.66’ E 00 06.03’

The tide allowed a leisurely start from Eastbourne and, at least initially, was a most enjoyable passage until it clouded over. The wind on leaving Eastbourne was very light but it gradually got up to a Force 4.

Passing the white cliffs of Beachy Head was spectacular in the sunshine. Arriving at Brighton Marina was somewhat unnerving – there is a wave reflection off the breakwater giving a very confused sea as one approaches the marina and the entrance is narrower than might be anticipated but once inside the protection is total.

Brighton Marina is huge. Wide fairways and aisles between the main pontoons. And all conceivable facilities with a substantial commercial centre with various restaurants, pubs, shops and the like as well as boat yard and repair facilities. However it is not full with many empty berths and many boats obviously not used for a long time with luxurious growth on the hull.

Monday 2 August 2010 Eastbourne N 50 47.52’ E 00 19.55’

An early start to catch the tide along the south coast to Eastbourne and the huge Sovereign Harbour Marina complex. Much of the passage was a flat calm with some sun and a smooth sea.

At Ramsgate we noticed the large number of European yachts particularly Dutch yachts and this has continued in Diver and Folkestone. At one point a flotilla of some 10 or more Dutch yachts passed us bound east.

Sunday 1 August 2010 Dover N 51 07.25’ E 01 20.61’

Refreshed, Alcyone left Ramsgate for Dover with a Force 4 wind from the south to south west. The sea became very lumpy as we approached Dover and began to deal with the port traffic control procedures required. For obvious safety reasons the port procedures for Dover are strictly enforced but the port is very helpful; according to the Pilot Book, launches come out to escort yachts into the harbour when required. Many harbours that we have visited have similar systems – those at Dover seem warranted whereas others seem excessive.

Dover is a large port; the ferry terminals occupy just a small area at the eastern end of the bay with the cruise terminal and other commercial quays in the western end and the yacht marina situated in the old harbour. Crossing the harbour from the eastern entrance to the marina brings home the size of the place. But when exploring on land, by foot, I was surprised to find also within the harbour area a beach and water sports area and resort facilities.

Before setting off on the cruise one acquaintance referred to the last leg as being “come round the corner at Dover and into the south west monsoon”. It looks as though this prediction might come true!

Saturday 31 July 2010 Ramsgate N 51 19.69’ E 01 25.25’

A make and mend day in Ramsgate. And a look around Ramsgate, including Waitrose.

Early morning the marina basin emptied as yachts set off to catch the tide to cross the Thames Estuary and then throughout the day yachts arrived. One interesting arrival was a Contessa 26, sailed by two young men, that started in Norway, crossing to Venezuela and was now on her way back to Norway; attached to her backstay were what looked like feathers and a bird skeleton supplied by the witch doctor, no doubt, to ensure safe passage.

Ramsgate has a long standing maritime heritage being built originally to offer shelter for ships in the Downs – the traditional anchorage between the mainland and Goodwin Sands. The harbour is the centre of the town. There is a Maritime Museum, opened so it proudly declares by Ted Heath some 35 years ago but now giving the impression of terminal failure. However on the outside to the building are two intriguing statements; “Ramsgate mean time is 5 mins 41 seconds faster than this clock” and “The first stroke of this clock at the hour of 12 indicates Greenwich Mena time”. On the harbour side is an attractive building with the notice “Ramsgate home for smack boys founded 1881”.

Friday 30 July 2010 Ramsgate N 51 19.69’ E 01 25.25’

We left Burnham-on-Crouch at 0800 hours, dictated by tide to cross the sandbanks of the Thames Estuary, bound for Ramsgate. A very trying passage. The wind started as a flat calm, then gradually increased as the day wore on to Force 4 to 5 from ahead accompanied by an unpleasant lumpy sea. Occasional rain completed the picture. Much of the time was motoring sometime with sails set, sometimes without. Alcyone’s course was up the Whittaker Channel, across Black Deep and across the Sunk Sand, to where the Sunk Tower used to be, and into Barrow Deep and then into Fisherman’s Gatt and escape (or so it seemed) the southern estuary. It was unnerving to be out of sight of land crossing the Sunk Sands with only 3 meters of water at times. It was with relief that the white cliffs of North Foreland and then round to Broadstairs and Ramsgate appeared.

On arriving at Ramsgate, even before Alcyone was fully berthed and lines made fast, various skippers appeared wanting to know what route we had taken across the estuary. Stories abounded of water depths experienced – the winner seemed to be a 36 foot yacht that had come across between Black and Barrow deep on a “new route” and only had 2 meters of water.

Ramsgate Marina has long pontoons forming a basin for visiting yachts in which boats raft up, totally unsupervised by the Harbour Master. Chaos. Alcyone found herself between two much larger boats with the outer one declining to move to a more suitable berth. During the night, for HW ± 2 hours, it became agitated in the harbour with all boats rolling around, mercifully without any serious damage beyond lost sleep and wet pyjamas.