Saturday 31 July 2010

Thursday 29 July 2010 Burnham on Crouch N 51 37.50’ E 00 48.23’

The final East Coast River, before pushing on south and westward for home, was the River Crouch.

From the Walton Backwaters, Alcyone sailed to the River Crouch with Force 4 to 5 winds from the north west backing later to west. No sunshine but no rain, although poor visibility. This was our first taste of navigating in the Thames Estuary and picking a passage through the sand banks; after depths in excess of 100 meters in the Clyde and western Isles, it is a little unnerving to be picking a route through depths of 5 or less meters offshore. The huge wind farms make for a further restriction on choice of routes.

As we left the Backwaters, passing another boat – a traditional wooden Dutch looking yacht – the skipper called across to us that out boat was the most beautiful boat ever. I am not sure how he recognised Alcyone particular merits amongst other Contessa 32s, particularly with her present grubby topsides.

The few days in the East Coast Rivers were always part of the plan as an area I wished to explore. But of course four days is only a taster. Nevertheless enjoyable and definitely an area to be returned to again. Before arriving in the area, I read again Maurice Griffith’s wonderful book “Magic of the Swatchways”. It is easy to understand why he formed such an attachment to the area. The changing landscape as the tide ebbs exposing large areas of mud banks. The causal acceptance (so it seems) of very limited water depths. The huge variety of boats with a significant number of older wooden traditional designs. But above all the flatland and huge skies – almost impossible to photograph but so impressive.

Wednesday 28 July 2010

Wednesday 28 July 2010 Titmarsh, Walton Backwaters N 51 51.79’ E 01 15.36’

The exploration of the Suffolk Rivers, and I suppose the Essex Rivers, continued today with a visit to the Walton Backwaters. This was always on the original plan and for some time has been a place I have wished to visit – maybe shades of Arthur Ransome “Secret Waters”. It does not disappoint. The view up Hanford water as we entered the Backwaters is breathtaking but we turned south into the Twizzle for Titmarsh Marina.



The marina give the impression of being one of the oldest in the country. It certainly is well established. Surrounded by flood bunds it looks out over the tidal mud flats of the Backwaters. Wandering around the marina what must be one of the ugliest boats was spotted; pale blue with a curious shaped hull, huge topsides and short dumpy mast.

The sail down was gentle with variable Force 3 to 4 winds, sunshine and no rain.



Tuesday 27 July 2010 Wolverton, River Orwell



Alcyone explored up stream from Ramsholt as far as tide and time would permit but regrettably not as far as Woodbridge. The River Deben may or may not be the prettiest river in England but it certainly is one of the prettiest. The landscape is gently rolling farmland with golden fields with the crops (or lack of rain) and dark green hedges and woodlands. And huge skies – I am sure that they cannot be larger than elsewhere and just seem larger due, no doubt, to the flat landscape.

And there is a lot of boating activity as well as boats on moorings; the variety of boats is also more interesting than in the Solent area with fewer ‘plastic fantastics’ and many more older wooden boats. The moorings and yacht clubs, as we passed seemed to be busy, with families on holiday.



From the River Deben we turned south again to return to the River Orwell, up past Felixstowe, and Pin Mill. The wind was, as might be expected from ahead and light and changeable. The it rained – not just average rain but heavy torrential rain that blocked out visibility and hammered down. Rain showers continued on into the evening when we were safely berthed in Wolverstone Marina.

Tuesday 27 July 2010

Monday 26 July 2010 Ramsholt, River Deben N521 01.25’ E01 21.66’


A wonderful sail round from Shotley to Ramsholt on the River Deben to meet up with Roger Graham of Contessa 32 “Wight Wizard”. Westerly Force 4 wind and sun! Getting over the Deben bar was less problematical than the pilot book suggested and proceeding up river we met up with Roger Graham who led us up river to Ramsholt. A pleasant lunch in the local hostelry.




Sunday 25 July 2010 Shotley, River Stour N51 57.63’ E01 16.68’

A fast passage from Lowestoft to Shotley Marina, in the River Stour. For most of the way the wind was light, 5 knots or less, but on the beam (or nearly) with occasional Force 4 giving a close reach.




 
The coastline has changed to very flat with long estuaries and, compared to what we have seen for many weeks, a huge amount of sailing boats out. Walking along the flood bund from the marina gives a very different landscape view to anything we have seen so far. I have been to this area before for Oppie National Championships many years ago, on holiday, but most particularly to visit Felixstowe on businness. It is somewhat different to be entering the estuary past the container terminals in one's own boat.

Saturday 24 July 2010

Friday & Saturday 23 & 24 July 2010 Lowestoft N52 28.32’ E01 45.11’


Two days in Lowestoft in the Royal Norfolk & Suffolk Marina. It has been crew change day again but for the last time on this cruise; Mathew has departed and Keith has joined.

Exploring Lowestoft almost felt as though one should record that Lowestoft has closed. Despite being a holiday resort there seem to be few holiday makers here and less for them to do – even the funfair was closed. The shopping centre has a selection of well known shops plus a lot of lesser outlets and charity shops and few customers.



Thursday 22 July 2010 Lowestoft N52 28.32’ E01 45.11’

A morning of exploration in Great Yarmouth and then a short hop down the coast to Lowestoft. The crew were less than complimentary about being berthed on the Town Quay at Yarmouth with its lack of facilities and wished to have a few more (some) mod cons (Showers).



Yarmouth Harbour is the river with quays along both banks. The Town Quay where we berthed is some 2 miles up stream. The main traffic today is supply boats for the north sea oil and gas rigs; it claims to be the largest supply boat port.

Herring has been a continuing factor in all the harbours visited down the eats coast from Lossimouth, in the Moray Firth, to Great Yarmouth and further south. Due to over fishing, the massive herring shoals along the north sea coast disappeared over the first decades of the 20th century and were almost extinct by the late 1930s. But the ‘silver darlings’ exerted a mighty pull. They dictated the migration of fishing fleets down the north sea as the boats and shoreworkers followed the shoals. In the autumn the herring ceased their southward journey off East Anglia and Great yarmouth and Lowestoft grew to accommodate the industry. Whilst it can be argued which port was the largest herring port, the vastness of the industry cannot be argued. Great Yarmouth accommodated over 1,000 herring boats in its heyday. Photographs of the boats arriving or departing give a whole new meaning to congestion. A herring drifter provided work for 100 people ashore gutting, filleting, salting and smoking. Trains arrived from Scotland bring the ‘herring girls ’ who followed the fish. It was a short but frantic season in Great Yarmouth from September to December. Sixty herrings a minute were gutted by one person working 14 hours a day.

Moored just astern of Alcyone was ‘Lydia Eva’, the last of the steam herring drifters. She was launched in 1933 and caught her last catch in 1938. Whilst looking old fashioned against today’s ships but she was very sophisticated in her day with electricity on board and wireless. A tour of the ship was thought provoking as to how sailors of that era lived and worked – Mathew was particularly taken with the idea that all the crew including Skipper lived in a single cabin and only had straw palliasse to sleep on and no washing or toilet facilities.

Our wandering us the took us through the Historic South Quay to the Herring Museum and Time and Tide Museum. Both have been built into old herring smokeries and told the story of the herring industry. One could peer up into the rafters at the smoking racks with the models to show men climbing to hang the fish.




Continuing on brought us into the present day on the sea front. A shock. Ugly 1960s style buildings jostled with amusement arcades and funfairs.

When we were on board 'Lydia Eva', moored alongside was an Albin Vega yacht - not in the first flush of youth - sailed by a Swede and crew he had picked up  in the pub the previous evening. One hears stories of boats having  no charts on board and being navigated by a road atlas. This was the case, the atlas clearly visible on the bridge deck. The crew of 'Lydia Eva' tried to get some charts but without success.

Alcyone left Great Yarmouth bound for Lowestoft, just 6 miles down the coast. A boisterous sail in Force 4 to 5 wind from ahead of course.

Wednesday 21 July 2010

Wednesday 21 July 2010 Great Yarmouth N52 36.36’ E01 43.45’

The original plan was to sail round Britain in about 60 mile passages, a minimum of overnight passages and following to coast to visit as many places as possible.

Planning somehow came unstuck in getting to Great Yarmouth. The distance from Whitby to Great Yarmouth is some 160 miles; making the short leg to Scarborough reduces the theoretical mileage to 140 miles. Intermediate harbours are the Humber Estuary, either anchoring off Spurn Point or Grimsby Marina, and Wells-next-the-Sea. Spurn is a good passage anchorage if the wind is from the north or east but exposed to south to west. Grimsby Marina is in a locked basin with access only at HW ±2.00 hours; high water for Wednesday was approximately at 0230 BST. Wells-next-the-Sea has limited water depth; the Harbour Master advised that we could get in on Tuesday but would then be neaped until at least Saturday before having sufficient water to get out. Hence it was decided to do the leg to Great Yarmouth in one.

Alcyone left Scarborough at 1030 hours Tuesday and arrived in Great Yarmouth by 1300 hours Wednesday. This is the longest passage I have done in Alcyone and the longest for some time. The forecast had promised light winds with talk of south easterly winds going round to the west. In the event, we had up to some 20 knots on the nose for much of the way. The sea was very lumpy across the Humber Estuary leaving us both feeling somewhat jaded due to effects of ‘mal du mare’. However, coming down the Lincolnshire Coast in the morning was again glorious with sunshine, and a fresh breeze.

The first part of the passage was along the North Yorkshire coast to Flameborough Head, white limestone cliffs providing a contrast to the previous coast line of brown sedimentary rock cliffs. Then, as the coast fell away, we continued out to sea to cross the Humber shipping lanes and oil and gas platform infested seas; we seemed to pass far more platforms than were marked on the chart and there was a continuous shipping movement. The supply boats in particular appeared to be a law unto themselves; for no apparent reason they would suddenly start into motion and follow us or shadow us. The platforms light up at night looked very impressive. Approaching Great Yarmouth the Norfolk coastline becomes low flat lands with long uninhabited beaches which looked wonderful in the morning sun. And finally the Scroby Wind Farm clearly visible for many miles and appearing to be a block on the channel to Great Yarmouth.

Then arriving at Great Yarmouth. One Pilot Book refers to the port not being welcoming to yachts – this is a gross understatement. The polite word might be unhelpful. But nevertheless we made it up river to the Town Quay to moor against the old quay wall in difficult tidal conditions. With modest investment it could be an excellent yacht harbour without in any way impacting on the oil industry supply boat trade; one local commented that the Council is only interested if it is amusement arcades and funfairs!





Monday 19 July 2010 Scarborough N5416.88’ W00 23.36


Before the longer passage to Great Yarmouth, a short sail to Scarborough. Another glorious sail in variable winds up to 22 knots true; and again sunshine.




The coastline looked marvellous, rolling hills coming down to the shore rather than the rocky cliffs we have been used to for some time. Scarborough harbour is nestled in under the hill which is surmounted by a huge castle; all very picturesque when entering from the sea. The harbour is in two distinct parts – the old harbour and the outer harbour – with both being dominated by the lighthouse. The outer harbour dries out but is filled with moorings with deep keel boats in cradles as Bridlington. The old harbour has recently been dredged to a minimum depth of 2m CD and contains a modern marina plus berths for fishing boats as well as tripper boats.


In front of the lighthouse is a striking statue of a bathing belle, one of a pair commissioned in 2007 and 2008 to celebrate Scarborough’s position as the first UK sea bathing resort in the 17th century to her regeneration in 21st century.

Following the requirements given in the Almanac, we radioed ‘Port Control’ for permission to enter and to request a berth. ‘Port Control’ seems an anarchism for such a small fishing and pleasure harbour, but one has to do what one has to do. Port Control were most helpful and allocated Alcyone a special berth in pride of place on the end of the main pontoon; he was there to welcome us and to ensure we moored in exactly the correct spot - right opposite a sign saying “Disabled priority access berth”. Either it was something I said or someone has been talking!

Today Scarborough is a holiday town dominated by the huge Majestic Hotel. The beach was crowded with holiday makers; boat trips from the harbour were doing a roaring trade – choice of Pirate ship, speed boats, or elegant (and it must be said some what elderly) tripper boats. We preferred Whitby; Scarborough was not as elegant and refined as I had expected with plenty of amusement arcades and candy floss available.

Sailing round Britain seems to be a very popular activity. We find the same boats keep tuning up in the various harbours as we all follow similar routes and are subject to similar weather constraints. One Contessa 26 crew in Douglas, Isle of Man, referred to ‘having done his circumnavigation a few years ago’ as though it is a right of passage that all cruising sailors must do. However, one boat that we first encountered in Arbroath and have seen in several harbours since is a Wayfarer dinghy “Viper” being sailed round Britain by a young lady, Fran, to occupy the summer. She put us to shame by announcing she left the River Debden on 15 May, and will complete the circuit in the next week or so. She arrived late evening in Scarborough and was on her way again early next morning.


Sunday 18 July 2010

Sunday 18 July 2010 Whitby N54 29.03’ W000 36.67’


A day of exploring Whitby and laundry. But without the sunshine of yesterday.

As a schoolboy I vaguely recollect coming on some sort of study camp to Whitby, something I recollect to do with natural history. I seem to remember that in some way girls were involved, not bad for an all boys school.

Today Whitby is a tourist resort and clearly very popular. Historically it has always been a seafaring town, a major whaling port as well as coaling port. Apparently the town was light by whale oil lamps, with the oil being rendered down from blubber on the quay.


It is the place where James Cook served his apprenticeship as a sailor before embarking on his three voyages of discovery. A replica of Endeavour operates out of the harbour taking holiday makers for trip round the bay. The Endeavour was a Whitby built collier; strong roomy and could be sailed with minimal crew. cook knew them well. The Captain Cook Memorial Museum provides an intriguing insight into his life here in Whitby and subsequent voyages; one proclamation issued by the American States at the time of the War of Independence ordering American Ships not to attack Cook’s ships as his exploration was of such importance to the human race. Another model display show Endeavour and all the stores and men that had to be accommodated; I thought Alcyone had a stowage problem!!


Walking out along the harbour arm, we watched fascinated (horrified) as youths were jumping off the top of the light tower on the south harbour arm – is this called ‘tombstoning’? Each time they did it, there was a gasp from the watchers on the north harbour arm.


At Amble, we first noted Yorkshire cobles being used as inshore fishing boats. Subsequently we have passed them at sea and seen them at other harbours along the coast, including here at Whitby. Rightly or wrongly I associate these boats with being beach launched from such place as Filey where there is no harbour. It is evident that they are not being kept as historic boast but as working fishing boats.

Saturday 17 July 2010 Whitby N54 29.03’ W000 36.67’


Crew change day. Mathew arrived just before mid day, having driven up from Swindon and in short order Ted departed in the car to Reading. He looked a little concerned in having to drive a BMW 1 series sport but seem to accept the car – the impression was given that this was a young man’s car and not a luxury motorway cruiser.

As rapidly as possible, Mathew and I put to sea for Whitby. The wind was predominantly from the south west increasing as the afternoon passed from less than 10 knots to touching 30 knots. For few times this cruise so far, reefing was required. But with the later sunshine, we romped along past the Teesside where I have spent long periods building various port projects. The past Runswick Bay where we used to go for picnics and to sail a newly acquired Lark dinghy when we lived on Teesside.


Alcyone entered Whitby early evening in glorious sunshine. She is now in ‘God’s own county’ – Yorkshire. In the evening sunshine Whitby looked very attractive, maybe one of the most attractive harbours we have visited; so very different from the dour grey Scottish fishing harbours.

Saturday 17 July 2010

Friday 16 July 2010 Sunderland N54 55.14’ W001 22.01’


The plan was to leave mid morning to sail to Whitby. However, over night the winds increased significantly making a passage debatable. Looking at the forecast first thing in the morning, it was apparent that the full effects of the low had not passed over and further Force 8 or 9 squalls were predicted but easing later. At mid day the decision was made to go but as a new forecast came in still including winds Force 5 to 7 occasionally 8, it was finally established that we would stay in Sunderland.